Champagnes aged in wood are usually less my thing, usually. But once again Nicolas proves to have a sure hand, this time with the wood. Jolivettes is a site in Bouzy, a Grand Cru that stands on chalky soils. Nicolas' vines - his plot is just 0.6 hectares in size - are around 30 years old, so they are in their prime. Their fruit is packed with delicious aromas, structure and life, resulting not only in a complex wine, but also a fascinating wine. The wine spends eight months in wooden barrels and remains there on its lees before Nicolas puts it away for 36 months, "sur latte", to mature and develop its wonderful red berry aromas, which combine with a delicate touch of yeast aroma to create a fabulously elegant fragrance. Powerful, fresh and exceptionally precise, the wine moves through the palate and finishes as powerful as it is mineral. A wine that will certainly improve with a little more bottle age. All those who are impatient should simply decant this wine briefly.