France - Rhône

We are overwhelmed by Julien Bréchet's wines. At the Domaine des Bosquets, their grapes grow on three different plateaus, which vary in altitude and geological composition. The Bréchets' wines are Grenache-based essences, extremely powerful yet elegant wines that are so convincing that one can certainly speak of a new fixed star shining brightly over the Gigondas appellation. These are extremely appealing wines that you will love!

Gilles Ferran (Escaravailles) once encouraged his school friend Philippe Cambie (an oenologist who shaped France's wine south) to switch sides and become a winemaker. Together, the two invested in old vines in the Côtes-du-Rhône Village appellation, where they were able to bottle a hell of a wine from the very first vintage (2006), named after the amorous sailor Calendal (Fréderic Mistral). With dedication and meticulousness, as if they were making a Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Gilles and Philippe continued to produce one great wine after another. After Philippe passed away far too early on December 18, 2021, Gilles' daughter Madeline (at their side since 2018) took Philippe's place and guarantees the continuity, guarantees us the outstanding quality of Calendal, today, tomorrow and in the distant future.

As difficult as Laurent Charvin is to characterize, his two wines are reserved, deep and mysterious. If, like him, you are in the fortunate position of having such wonderful old vineyards in such great locations, you can fall back on resources that need no make-up to cut a good figure in the spotlight. Laurent Charvin sees himself as a tool, he puts himself entirely at the service of the cause and achieves his goal with modest cellar technology: great wines.

Wow, what wines! Yann makes wines that take your breath away with apparent ease. In the Crozes-Hermitage and Hermitage appellations, he has a wealth of old vineyards. In the cellar, the grapes are destemmed in the classic manner, fermented and carefully matured in demi-muids (only a handful of which are new). Yann Chave's wines are fruity, dense and combine minerality, power and originality in a way that only great world-class wines can.

There are some good winegrowers, but only a few great ones, and the Clape family is one of the best of the great ones. Auguste Clape was one of the first in the region to bottle his own wines instead of selling the grapes to a cooperative. Auguste's son Pierre-Marie and his grandson Oliver Clape have since put the name of the Cornas appellation on the map - and added their own to the wish list of every wine lover on planet earth, along with that of Alain Voges. The work in the Clapes vineyard is exemplary and yet it takes courage to let the fruit hang in the fall until optimal ripeness and then transform it into great wines in the most traditional way. Without any frills. Come with us on a journey to the cradle of Syrah!

In the east of the Châteauneuf du Pape appellation - around Le Crau, one of the very best sites in the region - the brothers Pascal and Vincent Maurel grow Mourvèdre, Vaccarèse, Cinsault and Syrah as well as Grenache in the ancient vineyards of the Domaine Clos Saint Jean with vines up to 100 years old. Under the supervision of none other than Philippe Cambie, they press four breathtaking wines in a very traditional way, which are classically "Châteauneuf-Like", "vins de soleil".

The most sustainable developments are those of small steps. Just 15 years ago, Saint-Joseph was synonymous with Rhône wines that were, to put it positively, easy to drink and, to put it negatively, thin. Due to global warming, this Rhône appellation has now become a terroir where the Syrah grape can pull out all the stops. Pierre and Jean Gonon cultivate spectacular vineyards near Tournon, the heart of Saint-Joseph. The work on the steep slopes is hard, the "vineyard horse" Samson can whinny a song about it. The style of Gonon wines can best be described as powerful, sensual and balanced. The basis of their top crus are often plots with 100-year-old vines.

I like the wines of the Rhône Valley. Yes, this is well known far and wide. That's why I often travel to this region and always enjoy the wines of Bernard Gripa. Not only the two Saint-Josephs Les Berceau, but above all the Saint-Péray Les Figuiers, a super-delicious white from an appellation that deserves much more attention. I can only recommend that you try these wines from Bernard Gripa. Free yourself from convention and let yourself be surprised by something new, different and unexpected. Allow yourself to like something, something that touches you!

The printed and blogged hymns of praise for the wines of Domaine Janasse are legion. As with Giraud and Clos Saint Jean, a sibling team successfully conjures up wondrous wines in the bottle year after year, whereby we - and Christoph Sabon, head of Domaine Janasse, confirms us - have the impression that they produce the really great wines in the small vintages. Even the "little ones" have a wonderful freshness and finesse. Nothing stands in the way of everyday enjoyment and there is no undue strain on the wallet. You can take the winegrower and us at our word.

The Volques fell for Julius Caesar and, on his orders, drove Asterix and Obelix's companions out of Aquitaine while they themselves were being hunted by the Germanic tribes. The Celtic tribe gave its name to the Mas de Volques winery, whose vineyards are located where the Gauls once settled. Nicolas Souchon, who actually works hard for Clos Saint Jean, is also very committed to tending his parents' vineyard with the active support of Philippe Cambie. Together, they produce a wine that Julius Caesar would probably have chased other peoples around for.

Jean-Marie Guffens is, as my buddy Manfred Krankl from Sine Qua Non would say, a "wild dog". And he's right! Jean-Marie's "wine journey" began in Burgundy in the late 1970s. His wines quickly became some of the best in Burgundy. As a curious visionary, he began planting vines in a field strewn with stones not far from the small town of Apt, 420 meters above sea level. Convinced that he could produce seductively fruity whites and fiery, spicy reds, wines with elegance, he devoted almost half of his time to the wines of the Luberon. He dedicates these wines to his grandfather TINUS, a passionate Belgian farmer with whom he spent the summers of his childhood. Their personality ranges from cheerful to playful to serious, even sophisticated, always remaining honest and connected to the picturesque Luberon.

What does it take to make great wines in an almost forgotten corner of France? First-class vineyards in prime locations, ideally family-owned for generations, experience, foresight and a restrained spirit of innovation. But above all, you need passion and almost inexhaustible energy. Lionel Fraisse, a "stranger" by name, has all this, but has been the head and driving force behind Alain Voge for many years and is therefore probably also a partner in the business. Dare to approach these wild "Syrah dinosaurs", which nevertheless have endearing sides and can be tamed with a little patience.