The most sustainable developments are those of small steps. Just 15 years ago, Saint-Joseph was synonymous with Rhône wines that were, to put it positively, easy to drink and, to put it negatively, thin. Due to global warming, this Rhône appellation has now become a terroir where the Syrah grape can pull out all the stops. Pierre and Jean Gonon cultivate spectacular vineyards near Tournon, the heart of Saint-Joseph. The work on the steep slopes is hard, the "vineyard horse" Samson can whinny a song about it. The style of Gonon wines can best be described as powerful, sensual and balanced. The basis of their top crus are often plots with 100-year-old vines.