I would describe DuMol, which was founded with a vision in 1996 and is run by Andy Smith, the man for the rough stuff, now a partner, who has both feet firmly on the dusty ground of the Russin Rivers Valley in summer, as an affair of the heart. Wine is grown, not made, and DuMol is well aware of this, even though Andy Smith's job title is "winemaker. A great deal of sensitivity and foresight is applied here in th cellar, deliberately avoiding extreme extractions and always using little new wood in order to give the terroir its space. It is therefore no coincidence that DuMol's wines feel as if they actually grow in a cool climate, as they are elegant and fresh. A successful surprise!