For almost a decade, Gilles Troullier steered the fortunes of perhaps the greatest winemaker in the northern Rhône, where he managed to deliver some perfect wines. A few years ago, he settled in the very south of France, in Roussillon, where he produces great wines full of finesse, which shine with spice and precision. In a small, manageable operation, Gilles manages to press biodynamic marvels from the fruit of ancient vineyards, producing just 1500 cases per year.